This is the section to find frequently asked questions about your Orange mountain bike.
4: Main Pivot
5: Shock Removal and Installaton
1 x 4mm Allen Key
1 x 5mm Allen Key
1 x 6mm Allen Key
22mm spanner (or adjustable spanner)
17mm socket and rachet
Torque Wrench (with 14 Nm in range)
Orange Switch 7 Bearing Tool Kit
Orange Switch 7 Bearing Kit
You will also need:
Rag or paper towel
Bearing lock (EG: Loctite 641)
Threadlock (EG: Loctite 243)
Anti-Seize Grease
Notes:
Bearings should be installed using Orange Bearing Installation Tools (22mm and 26mm)
Bearing should not be re fitted once removed
Bearings should only be installed using correct tools which push on bearing outer race
All bearings should have a tight push fit. If any bearings are loose these should be fitted using bearing lock. Loctite 641 Bearing Fit
Grease should only be used when fit is tight.
Any excess grease should be removed as this can contaminate the thread lock on the bearing retention bolts.
Swingarm bearing: 6000 2RSL
Dog bone, Linkage, Trunnion bearing: 6900 2RSL
Bearings can be purchased on Orange website link at the bottom of document
1.1 To remove the trunnion bearings first remove the shock see: 5: Shock Removal & Installation
1.2 Fit the M8 inner bearing removal nut on the inside of the shock mount, fit the hollow removal tube on the outside. Install the M8 bolt with washer.
1.3 Hold the inner nut with 17mm open ended spanner, tighten the M8 bolt so it pulls the bearing out into the removal tube.
22mm bearing removal set-up:
22mm bearing removal cross section:
1.4 Discard and replace the bearing once it has been removed as removal will damage the bearing.
1.5 The same process is used for all 6900 (22mm) bearings.
1.6 To install new bearings apply a small amount of bearing grease to the bearings, remove excess once fitted to avoid contamination.
1.7 Put the larger m8 nut that centres on the back face of the bearing mount, the 22mm bearing push tool on the outside.
1.8 hold the large M8 nut with adjustable spanner and tighten the M8 bolt until the bearing is seated.
22mm bearing install set up:
22mm bearing install set up cross section:
1.9 The process is the same for 22mm and 26mm bearings the only difference is the tools.
26mm bearing removal set up:
26mm bearing removal cross section:
26mm bearing installation set up:
26mm bearing removal cross section:
Aluminium bolts should be torqued using a torque wrench to 14NM.
Bolts should not be re used - fit fresh bolts on a fresh frame assembly.
Bolt must not be contaminated with grease.
Bolts have pre applied Loctite on, no additional Loctite is required.
Bolts should always be replaced when bearings are replaced.
2 x 17mm bolts for trunnion shock mount
6 x 19mm bolts for linkage
Spacers should be used between all bearings and hardware
Excessive grease should be removed from any spacers as this can contaminate the Loctite on the threads.
All bolts should be marked with a pen to indicate they have been torqued up correctly.
3.1 The lower shock bolt can be re used. It should have Loctite 243 reapplied (New bolts come with pre-applied Loctite).
3.2 Lower shock bolt torque 14Nm.
3.3 Bearing Grease should only be used under the head of the bolt and between the lower shock spacer and the linkage not on the thread. Excess grease should be removed to avoid contamination.
5.1 Support the bike in a bike stand that lifts the weight off the rear wheel.
5.2 Remove the rear wheel.
5.3 Remove both trunnion bolts (Item 9 Figure 1) note the inner spacers (item 10) sit between the shock and the bearings; these should be removed and cleaned. The bearings are a push fit and should be left in the frame unless they are to be replaced. Check bearings for play, or roughness and replace if necessary. See 1: Linkage Bearings:
Figure 1:
5.4 Inspect the trunnion bolts. If the pre applied Loctite is no longer present these should be discarded and new bolts should be fitted. See: 2: Aluminium bolts for details. Bolts should be replaced when new bearings are fitted. Bolts should not be re used more than three times.
5.5 Support the rear shock to avoid it contacting the frame lift the rear swingarm slightly (about 40mm) to expose the lower shock bolt (item 7 Figure 2), remove the lower shock bolt and remove the shock from the frame.
Figure 2:
5.6 Installation is the reverse of removal.
5.7 The lower shock bolt can be re used. It should have Loctite reapplied (the new bolts come with pre applied Loctite).
5.8 Lower shock bolt torque: 14Nm.
5.9 Trunnion bolts: 14Nm - do not put grease on thread of Loctite bolts as it will stop the Loctite from functioning correctly.
6.1 First remove the rear shock see: 5:Shock Removal & Installation
6.2 Gently lift the rear swingarm to the maximum point of travel, then simultaneously lift the linkage at the front edge. The linkage should cam over centre slightly, allowing the swingarm to lower will reveal the inner dog bone bolts. Note: the rear wheel and shock must be removed to perform this operation. It should look like the below once completed:
Figure 3:
6.3 loosen by half a turn both of the swing arm bolts, figure 1 item 4 and the dog bone bolts figure 4 item 6.
Figure 1:
6.4 When all the bolts are slackened off, remove the dog bone bolts and swing arm bolts taking note of the spacer locations between the bearing and linkages. It may be necessary to resist the swingarm from moving to undo the bolts on the drive side.
6.5 Lift the swingarm to its fullest extent to expose the linkage pivot bolts figure 1 item 5.
6.6 remove the linkage pivot bolts.
6.7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
6.8 aluminium linkage bolts should be replaced if Loctite is no longer present.
Pivot bolts and dog bone bolts torque: 14NM - do not put grease on thread of Loctite bolts as it will stop the Loctite from functioning correctly.
Additional information on general bike maintenance for example main pivot removal instructions can be found here on the Orange Bikes website:
www.orangebikes.com/support/faqs/
Bike service equipment can be purchased for here:
www.orangebikes.com/shop/components/tools
Bike service parts can be purchased for here:
Yes, we offer a full re-spray service on all Orange Bikes. You can do this either directly with us or make arrangements through your dealer.
Before sending your frame to us directly you must complete the repaint form (downloadable here). Frames without a completed form will be rejected. We always recommend this should be done by an authorised Orange Bikes dealer - this is especially important for e-bikes where the correct tools and dealer diagnostic equipment are essential for rebuilds.
When sending your frame for re-spray, remove all components and stickers, heli tape or scratch patches you may have applied to the frame. Package it carefully and send it to the factory (see contact page for address) along with the completed respaint form.
When we receive your frame, we will strip the existing paint and prepare it for a fresh powder-coating. It will then be painted in the earliest allocated window for that particular colour. Fresh out of the oven we'll face and ream any excess paint, reassemble with new pivot bearings (for full suspension models), apply new decals and fit a metal headbadge. We will then give you a call to let you know it is finished and take card payment over the phone. Once this is all done the frame will leave with our courier and makes its way back to you.
If you are local and wish to drop-off and/or collect your frame in person this is possible by prior appointment.
Expect a wait of 3-4 weeks depending on colour choice and schedule.
Pricing
Hardtails (including decals and return postage in mainland UK) – £250
Full suspension (including pivot kit, decals and return postage in mainland UK) – £300
E.P.O. E-bike models: (including pivot kit, decals and return postage in mainland UK) – £350
To book your frame for a repaint, please send an email to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)
Please wait for confirmation from Orange Bikes before sending your frame.
Our re-spray service is available to UK customers with Orange Bikes frames only.
Applies to the following models:
Surge (mkII 2019/2020),
Surge 29 (2020),
Charger (mkII 2019/2020),
Phase (2020)
Always check the inside of the battery compartment is clean and dry. Use contact cleaner periodically to ensure a good connection to the battery terminals.
It's not as hard as you might think. Find a piece of stiff wire and check out how Dan does it.
Race Sponsorship
Orange has a long history of sponsoring some of the best riders in the world. Greg Minnaar, Steve Peat, Joe Barnes and many more have all ridden Oranges to victory at some point. It’s not surprising therefore that we get a lot of enquiries about sponsorship.
If you wish to apply for sponsorship firstly can we ask that you read this rather good article by Wideopen magazine on the topic:
http://wideopenmag.co.uk/news/16154/five-things-you-should-never-do-when-trying-to-get-sponsored
James Huang also covers a lot of relevant points that you should consider before sending us your application:
http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/angryasian-sponsorship-is-not-about-you-36841/
If after reading the above articles you still wish to apply for sponsorship please send a covering letter and race result resume to:
sponsorship@orangebikes.co.uk
Charity Sponsorship
We receive numerous requests for sponsorship and monetary/raffle prize donations from many equally deserving causes, unfortunately we cannot offer help to all. If you wish to apply for sponsorship in this regard send a covering letter to:
sponsorship@orangebikes.co.uk
All applications will be reviewed periodically and we will contact you if you are successful.
Dropper seatposts have become the common standard with modern mountain bikes and it is important that you choose a seatpost with the suitable overall length and ‘drop’ to fit your bike frame in combination with the rider‘s size and desired maximum seat height.It is very important that you allow for the correct amount of seatpost insertion into your frame.
The amount of seatpost inserted into the seat tube should not be confused with the “minimum Insertion” marking on the seatpost - This mark is for the seatpost manufacturer’s tolerance for the post itself and not specific for the frame in which it is to be inserted. To maintain the integrity of your frame we recommend a mimimum insertion of 150mm of seat post.
This set-up often means the dropper post’s collar is very close to the seat clamp on the frame. This is the correct set-up. Do not run a dropper seat post with a large amount of the lower insertion length visible to do so, you risk serious damage to your frame. An incorrectly inserted dropper seatpost will invalidate your warranty.
A Direct Mount Derailleur, or DRD, is Shimano's attempt to create a stronger frame to derailleur interface helping to provide more precise shifting. The hanger takes the place of the upper link of a conventional rear derailleur, connecting the frame to the upper pivot of a DRD specific mech and eliminating the weakest part of the system.
This technology only works with specific Shimano DRD rear derailleurs, it will not work with traditional rear derailleurs and there is no SRAM equivalent.
DRD hangers are available for:
2014 Five, Five 29 and Alpine 160 frames.
2013 Five (Maxle), Gyro, Alpine 160, Patriot, 224-evo and 322 frames.
You can buy them as a spare part here.
We do not sell bikes direct to the consumer with the exception of our ex-demo and closeout models.
To find an Orange Mountain Bikes dealer near you with a view to buying, viewing or test riding one of our bikes, please visit our dealer page:
http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/dealers/
Our full range of ex-demo and closeout models can be viewed on the offers page:
We are regularly asked by people if they can use the Orange Bikes logo on team kit, videos or ads etc. While we are flattered that our logo is a popular request for such items, we cannot allow our logo's use unless it is directly connected to Orange Bikes as member of our dealer network or officially sponsored rider, team or event.
The Orange Mountain Bike website displays photographs that have been converted into digital images to represent the products available for purchase. We do our upmost to accurately present the colour, but with variations in monitor calibration there may be slight discrepancies beyond our control. To ensure the best attempts are made to provide uniform shots, we photograph all bikes in a studio at the factory using the same equipment and fixtures to control light and produce consistent representations.
The nature of the product we supply means differences in frame materials, baking processes and treatments all contribute to the final paint finish. To control as much as possible we powder coat our frames in house but a particular colour or lacquer might lay differently according to material or factors involved in supply beyond our control. Finishing frames in such small quantities also means paint thickness may vary and with some colours more temperamental than others in their application, small inconsistencies may manifest themselves on the finished product. We quality control all finished frames and where inconsistencies occur, either accept or reject based on the difficulty of a particular colour.
We take great pride in the hand built and hand painted frames we produce and ensure the best possible quality at every stage, if you are unhappy with any area of your bike please get in touch.
Unfortunately the warranty only applies to the original owner, please see the warranty section for details.
The specification of the headset you require is determined by your frame’s head tube and the steerer tube of your fork.
To make things simpler universal headset codes can be used to detail the specification of the headset required.
Bearing location refers to whether the headset is a tradition External Cup (EC) fitting, a Zero Stack (ZS), or an Integrated System (IS).
At first glance it might appear complicated, but it is the minimal amount of info required to define a headset now. All the manufacturers are still free to name headsets as they wish (for example Hope may still use letters and numbers) but they will explain the letters and numbers in the above terms to make fitment info universal.
In recent times 4 types of headtube have been used by Orange. Below is a list of what they are including the steerer tubes they are compatible with:
Below is a table giving examples of our most common headsets. If the model you are looking fovr is not here, the in formation will be on the models page on our archives 2015-2019 and 2009-2014
| Frame | Headtube | Fork Steerer | Headset Code |
|---|---|---|---|
| Five 2014 >, Alpine 160 2014 >, | 49mm Parallel | Tapered | ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 (Hope 4F) |
| Crush 2016, RX9 , Clockwork 100 and Clockwork 120 | 44mm Parellel | Tapered | ZS44/28.6|EC44/40 (Hope 2H) |
| RX9 , Clockwork 100 and Clockwork 120 | 44mm Parallel | 1.1/8” Parallel | ZS44/28.6|ZS44/30 (Hope 2B) |
| 322 and 324 | 49mm Parallel | 1.1/8” Parallel | ZS49/28.6|EC49/30 (Hope 4F plus HS136) |
| Pre 2009-2010 frame with 1.1/8" headtube and steerer | 1.1/8” Parallel | 1.1/8” Parallel | EC34/28.6|EC34/30 (Hope 1A) |
| Five and Alpine 160 2011>2013 | Tapered | Tapered | ZS44/28.6|ZS56/40 (Hope 2E) |
The threaded spacer sleeve between the Allen bolts comes in three lengths 29mm, 31mm and 33mm. If you need spares measure the outside dimension of the shock mount on your frame or swing-arm. This distance minus 2mm is the sleeve length you need. You can buy them as a spare part here.
Torque setting are important and we recommend that you use a good quality torque wrench when assembling and maintaining your bike. Torques setting for components be in the component manufacturer documentation (printed or online). Often, the values are printed on the components themselves.
Here’s a useful table of torque settings for your Orange suspension frame:
| Bolt / Thread | Torque Settings | Models |
|---|---|---|
| Shock bolts | 13Nm | All models |
| Bearing end cap | 14Nm + Loctite 243 | Most models 2014 on |
| Horiz-Hold Bearing clamp bolts | 14Nm | Most models pre 2014 |
| Horiz-Hold end caps | 8Nm + Loctite 243 | Most models pre 2014 |
| Rear axle bolts | 16Nm | 222, 223, 224, 322, 324, 327, 329 |
We are often asked what size front mech, seat post or bottom bracket fits a particular model and this can be one of the hardest questions to give an answer to. Because we introduced running changes to each bike, knowing the year of manufacture does not help to clearly identify which variation of the model you may have. Some seatposts were shimmed to fit seat tubes, bottom bracket length is determined by the chainset you use (sorry but we don’t check this with every chainset available) and front mech’s could be top pull, bottom pull or even plate style.
We do not have records of frame numbers for older bikes so this cannot be used to accurately identify a model.
What we have tried to do is give an idea of what was produced over the years, please use this guide, measure the component you are replacing and try and get one with identical dimensions. Always check with your dealer that the part you are purchasing will fit, if in doubt let them do it.
The world of cycling is full of buzz words and marketing propaganda. At Orange we try not to pigeon-hole bikes, we realise people ride as individuals, not according to the disciplines which are 'in' at the time. We created the 'ride guide' simply to show the type of riding the bike was designed for, but also its aptitude in related disciplines.
The marked boxes indicate the design brief of each frame, the stars then indicate how we judge its performance within each category. The Alpine 160 was designed for all-mountain and freeride applications, the stars then show its relative strengths within each discipline. The G3 was designed for XC-trail and adventure riding; the stars again show its relative strengths while the stop signs show any restrictions we place upon its use.
We have chosen the categories based on the most commonly used riding terms, a brief explanation of each is provided below:
Downhill: These bikes are designed for one thing: flat out downhill speed. They are built to take the abuse and provide run after run of big-hit excitement. Downhill bikes are purely performance orientated within a very specific discipline.
Freeride: Freeride bikes are designed for tough, technical, nadgery terrain. Freeriding can cover anything from ploughing through an Alpine rock field to negotiating your way through tricky 'north-shore' style trails in the local woods. They are built for serious terrain, but slightly higher bottom brackets and steeper head-angles generally make them more nimble at slower speeds than a dedicated downhill bike.
All-Mountain: All-mountain bikes do just that, they take you up and down any part of the mountain. They have the poise of a freeride bike on the downs, but air shocks and a lighter component package make them less of a struggle to get back up again. They're the bike for those who want to pedal, but still need a bike to take the hits.
XC Trail: This is the kind of riding most of us do in the UK. It includes everything from trail centre bashing to a full day of riding in the wilds. They're for anyone who rides all day and needs performance on the ups as well as the downs. But don't be fooled, just because it's an XC bike doesn't mean it isn't going to scream for more on the descents too.
Adventure: Adventure covers the more traditional aspects of XC. Big days out with a map and compass, getting lost on your local bridleways, or even finding a piece of singletrack which makes the commute to work the best part of the day.
Touring: Plan a route, pack your panniers and head out into the hills for a week of downtime. In our 'ride guide' this can include touring around country lanes, doing that point to point off-road ride you've been planning for years, or simply riding into work. These bikes can handle off-road riding, but they're designed for efficiency and versatility rather than trail abuse.
The critical reader will notice the overlap between these categories, and this is reflected in the rating system within the 'ride guide'. A freeride bike, for example, is going to have downhill and all-mountain capabilities. Similarly, an adventure oriented bike is going to have similarities with both an xc-trail bike and touring bike? that's our point, none of our bikes just do one thing.
When choosing a bike, be realistic about your capabilities. A longer travel bike does not make you a better rider; technique is learnt, not part of the bike package. If you're riding xc-trails, don't buy a freeride bike and believe it's going to make you a better rider. If you're in any doubt about what is going to suit you best, talk to your local dealer and get their advice. If you are still unsure, arrange a test ride and take the bike on the trails you ride. If you have fun and want to ride it more, it's definitely the bike for you. Riding is about feel, not the buzz word which forms the catalogue header.
Standard tyres have been chosen in accordance with each bikes intended use and the width which best suits the frame and application. The minimum clearance for any part of the frame should be 3mm, this allows sufficient clearance for wheel flex in the event of a heavy side load. Always ensure wheels are trued and dished correctly.
When changing tyres, select a width based on the clearance of your current set up. If there is not sufficient clearance, do not use the tyre as it may damage paintwork or the frame itself. For full suspension models check clearance on the frame by completely compressing the suspension with a correctly fitted and inflated tyre.
Your choice of replacement tyres must also consider fork requirements; check the fork manual or website for details on their minimum clearance requirements. Expect a minimum of around 5mm to be necessary for most fork manufacturers. Check clearance on the fork crown by completely compressing the suspension with a correctly fitted and inflated tyre.
Remember, tyres can provide the most cost effective way of adapting the performance characteristics of your bike. Establish the type and conditions you are riding and select your rubber accordingly. If you are unsure of what suits you best, an Orange dealer can advise you on models and widths.
It is important you look after your bike to ensure maximum performance and improved longevity. The programme you adopt will be dependent on you, your riding conditions and your riding style. We recommend talking to your bike shop regarding proper practices, it's also worth getting a good maintenance book to talk you through procedures you can do at home. Keeping the bike clean and well lubed is always the best place to start...
Unfortunately Orange is unable to supply touch up paints for our powder coated full suspension or wet painted hard tail frames.
However, luckily there are many options available if you get some damage in the paint of your bike, these range from car touch up paints which can be made to match your paint colour at places like Halfords.
Model paint or even nail varnish are also great options for small areas. It is also worth keeping in mind that we offer a full repaint service for any frames in need of a full new coat of paint. Full details here...
The warranty card supplied with the bike gives you all the details you need to check the eligibility of a warranty claim on the frame. This is also available online here. The bike should have been registered from new and proof of purchase must be sent with any returns. All warranty claims must be sent via your supplying dealer.
Suspension forks, rear shocks and other parts not manufactured by Orange Bikes are covered by the stated warranty of their manufacturer. Claims on components should be sent to their UK representative again through your supplying dealer.
After a serious accident the frame should be checked for any indication of stress or potential failure. This may include cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint peeling, dents or any other marks consistent with the trauma of a severe impact.
If a problem is identified and you feel that it may be repairable, e-mail a picture to us. We will then contact you with our recommendation and an estimate for any work which we could potentially carry out. Due to the process of heat treatment, any frame repaired which is over three years old may not retain its original strength, so in most cases we recommend the frame be replaced.
In the event that the damage is irreparable, or that the cost would be too dramatic to justify, we refer you to the accidental damage section of your warranty card. To the original owner, and with proof of purchase supplied, we offer a discount for replacement frames damaged in a crash. This discount is a gesture of goodwill and dependant on the conditions set out on the warranty card. If a replacement is provided, be more careful where you’re riding!!
Getting the right size bike is perhaps the most important decision once you have decided which model suits you best.
Traditionally bikes have been sized on the height of the seat-tube, but more recently, things have moved on.
Top tubes are lower and often seat-tubes are shorter, to allow for dropper seat-posts and improved standover.
Modern geometry means that top-tubes are longer and stems shorter too. As well as the sizing guidelines on the Geometry & Sizing section for each of our bikes, we also provide reach and stack measurements to help you in deciding which size frame will be right for you.
We reccomend that you make use of the expert advice of our dealers. Every rider has different needs depending on their height, shape, and what style of riding they intend to do. Our dealers can provide you with the information you need and make sure you get the fit which is perfect for you. If you are still in doubt, arrange a test ride.
Each bike shows where you can find a demo model and our dealer page lists the demo bikes each store holds in stock. We also attend many demo days throughout the year and you can find a listing of them here. If there isn’t a store with the specific bike you need, any Orange dealer has access to a central fleet they may book on your behalf. These bikes must be pre-booked by your dealer, so make sure you plan ahead.
All replacement decal sets that we have available are available to buy online here
You may have seen custom decal sets on other Orange Bikes. This is not something we have ever offered and may have been done by a third party. We do not offer custom decal sets.
We get a lot of speculative correspondence requesting placements under various study/work experience schemes. Unfortunately we cannot provide a structured experience which would provide the rewards traditional engineering firms may offer. Because of the way we operate, the design, manufacture, marketing and distribution is quite a unique setup which would not give you sufficient exposure and would be difficult for us to implement with the small number of staff at the factory. If we do ever have opportunities these will be advertised with application details on the website.
Orange pivot bearings are maintenance free. They come greased from new. Avoid using a high pressure washer to clean your bike as this will remove the grease. Check the wear of the bearings every 6 months. Remove your rear wheel and rear shock and lift the swing arm up and down. If they feel rough then get a new pair!
The information here applies to most of the suspension models we have made. The earlier clamped bearing, known as Horiz-Hold and the more recent press-fit system are covered.
You can also purchase a special tool for the press fit pivot bearings: 28mm version, 32mm version
The easiest way is to download these instructions:
US Website
UK Website
